The story follows a fading Hollywood star, Elisabeth Sparkle, stuck in post glory fitness TV hell, who loses her job just as she turns 50 and who goes through a mysterious, experimental procedure to regain her youth, the substance. What begins as a Faustian bargain quickly spirals into a nightmarish descent as her new, idealised self (a game Margaret Qualley begins to eclipse her original identity, leading to battle for (self) control.
With The Substance the French director delivers a bold, audacious and provocative film, with echoes of both Stanley Kubrick in its controlled formal visuals and the less salubrious schlocky cinema of the '80s. It is a wild, unapologetic ride that blends body horror, psychological drama, and dark satire, as impressive as it is emotionally resonant. Imagine Frank Henenlotter reimagining The Picture of Dorian Gray through a feminist lens, with a Sunset Boulevard-esque twist, and you’ll begin to grasp the chaotic brilliance of this film.
At its core, The Substance is a biting exploration of identity, aging, and the societal pressures placed on women, particularly in the public eye. The director takes her time to picture Elisabeth's loneliness and isolation in the first, slow burn act with some near dialogues free scenes and it is surprisingly sincere and affecting. When she unleashes the body horror elements, they are not just for shock value—they serve as a visceral metaphor for the self-destruction that often accompanies the pursuit of perfection. The practical effects are jaw-dropping with a final act of hilariously over the top insanity right until a final scene that is at once grotesque and unexpectedly beautiful.
Demi Moore delivers a career-best performance, fully embracing the physical and emotional demands of her role. Her portrayal of a woman grappling with her own obsolescence is raw, vulnerable, and deeply moving. The actress took such a massive gamble accepting that part as the film could have easily turned into ridicule and dragged her down with it but it paid off beautifully. Margaret Qualley, as her younger counterpart, is equally compelling, embodying the careless arrogance of youth.
A mad, sincere and affecting nightmare that knows when to be funny too, it will make you gasp and laugh in equal measures.
Review by Laurent de Alberti
Star rating: ★★★★★
Official Selection, in competition.
The Substance. Directed by Coralie Fargeat. Starring Demi Moore, Margaret Qualley, Dennis Quaid...
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